Friday, 13 March 2009

Impressions of Izmir

We arrived in Izmir on another dull morning and it was cold. Today’s battle of sun v cloud went eventually the other way. The cloud would not submit but the sun won on points. With Ephesus a fond memory from a previous cruise we decided to spend our fifth visit to Turkey getting some “Real Turkey”.

We walked about 7km from the ship to Konak Square with detours. The coat that was needed at the beginning of the day was becoming a hindrance later especially when I was carrying 9 litres of water for the last 500m back to our cabin thanks to a strategically place branch of Migros at the port.

Turkey is a lovely country although Izmir itself is not the most obvious place for a holiday. Any self respecting builder or civil engineer would probably have nightmares after seeing how anything from pavements (sidewalks) to apartment blocks are constructed. Cafes are lovely places to sit and watch life but remember that smoking is still a legal requirement for the over 10s in Turkey and for those of us used to clean air acts that can be a bit of a shock.

We visited Alsancak station which was interesting for me. A beautiful station but sadly devoid of trains. The levels of cleanliness at the station were reflected everywhere. I was impressed by the extreme cleanliness of the toilets we used. The pavements although poorly constructed were litter free to an extent that would shame London or New York and dog fouling was virtually non-existent.


The very long walk to Konak Square was rewarded by views of a charming clock tower, a small mosque and a curious statue to a rebellious journalist who would these days, I strongly suspect, be described as a terrorist.

Turkey is a country which in so many ways hovers between West and East, between second world and first. It is an EU wannabe and staunch NATO member. A secular state where most people are Moslems. Perhaps this ambiguity was best illustrated at a marked disabled (handicapped) path across a small street. The pavement had been dropped on one side and on that side a bollard divided the pathway; on the other side of the street the pavement had not been dropped. Turkey whither goest thou?

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